Lily Culture: a half century with lilies - by Art Delahey, CPLS & Riverside Gardens

Lilies grow best in a well drained soil. Heavy, poorly drained soil will cause lilies to develop problems which ultimately lead to their demise. Heavy (clay) soils can be amended with plenty of fibrous material (straw,wood-chips, etc) and/or sharp sand, washed gravel or crushed rock worked deeply into the topsoil. Regular applications will gradually improve the soil's friability.

The lighter sandy loam soils provide nearly ideal conditions for the deep-rooted bulbs, except these soils lack humus. Adding compost, well-rotted manure, leafmold or other fibrous material will improve the moisture-holding capacity and add nutrients for the bulbs. Under no circumstances should lily bulbs be planted in close contact with rotted manure.

Site

Lilies prefer to be in the sunshine, but will do well if they receive at least six hours of full, mid-day, sunshine. A sheltered southern exposure works best, although they will perform well on the east or west side of a north-south fence. Shelter from wind will let them attain their normal height, yet they should be open to prevailing breezes to allow air circulation to dry the foliage.

Planting Time

Because lilies put their roots down in the fall before soil cools down, it is best to plant bulbs in mid to late September. Bulbs planted later or in the spring will wait until the soil warms up to put roots down, thereby delaying their blooming period and somewhat reduce their performance.

Planting Tips

Plant in small groups of three to five bulbs, situated 8 to 10 inches apart. This will allow room for blooms and still provide a small mass of bloom. Refrain from planting too close to trees and shrubs as their roots will interfere with future digging of the bulbs. On lighter soils bulbs should be planted at a depth three times their diameter ( 5 to 6 inches deep). On heavy soils two times their diameter or 4 to 5 inch is adequate.

Dig the hole about two inches deeper than required and sprinkle a couple of tablespoons of good lawn fertilizer (16-20-0 or 11-52-0) in the bottom, cover this with 2 inches of soil and then set the bulb. [ note: make sure there is no herbicide mixed with the fertilizer] Water thoroughly and, for the first winter, mulch the plantings. In the fall remove the stems by standing astride them and giving a sharp, twisting tug, or by cutting them off at the soil surface with a sharp hoe or spade. Additional fertilizing can be done at budding time (same fertilizer as mentioned previously) and again after the blooms have completely finished.

Replanting

After a few years lilies will need to be dug up and reset. A good rule of thumb is a dig them in the fall after the first frost and when six or more stems are growing where the original stem showed during the first year. Some varieties reproduce quite quickly while other btake forever to produce new bulbs. Lift the entire clump, break the bulbs apart, replant the largest as described above, and become a hero by giving the balance to your neighbour or to your societies fall bulb sale if possible.

Irrigating

Lilies do best when they are not over-watered. Only in hot, dry spells will they really require moisture. Water in the morning so that the stems dry quickly, or better yet, flood-irrigate so that the stems and foliage do not get wet. Prolonged periods of damp and humid conditions foster the development of botrytis which results in dead, brown leaves and stems, thereby weakening the bulb and reducing the bloom size.

In plots out here at Riverside Gardens I have tried over the years to minimize the number of weeds that actually get to set seed. Not easy but if you can do it year after year then you notice the weed population thinning considerably. I'm to the stage where three passes annually with the hoe, as I check the variety markers and the growing conditions, will further thin the ranks.

When CPLS took over responsibilty for the Dingwall/McKercher plot we soon realized we had a major weed problem. Common groundsel (Senecio vulgaris) had infiltrated the plot and was in the process of taking over. Dandelions (Taraxacum officinale), brome grass (Bromus inermis), quack grass (Agropyron repens) and annual sow thistle (Sonchus oleraceus) were also thriving in the rich silty loam. In our first year we managed to hire some student labour to remove the weeds - a move that proved costly to CPLS and not really effective in reducing the production of weed seeds. So a new tack was required unless we planned to have most of our membership getting older quicker in the years to come.

In spring 1997 we decided to try a herbicide program for weed control. Since the first and most troublesome weed to deal with was the groundsel, the plots were sprayed late May/early June with Buctril M, one of the few herbicides to control groundsel. This also knocked down other annual weeds such as red-root pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus) and lamb's quarters (Chenopodium album). A follow up spraying was made in September (would have been better in August) to get the groudsel which had germinated during the summer.

In the fall the plots were spayed with Round-up one of the safest and most effective herbicides available to us. After the lilies had matured and started to ripen it was possible to spray the perennial weeds in amongst the lilies without fear of wiping out our stocks. The spray was directed in general over the lily row at a height which covered the entire weed. At last report the dandelions, grasses and thistle were not looking happy. Round-up is most effective when applied in the fall as plants are storing nutrients in their roots at that time. The chemical is taken into the root system and it kills the roots over winter.

All chemicals were mixed at the rate of one ounce per gallon of water, and applied with a two-gallon hand sprayer which had an adjustable nozzle. The work can be done fairly quickly especially if a water supply is close at hand. Unless you are agriculturally based it is difficult to come by these farm chemicals unless you buy them in suitable quantities. Home-garden products made from concentrated chemical are available from nursery centers. These are diluted versions so you will have to check the label instructions to ensure the correct dosage.

In spraying a lily plot care has to be taken to direct the spray at the base of, and across, the lily stem to provide coverage. A narrow spray from a nozzle held as close as possible to the soil level, and yet high enough to cover the weed is mandatory. Extreme care obviously has to be taken where there are small seedlings. In late fall when stems are dying/drying the entire lily can be sprayed without fear of damage.

The success our of initial program was evidenced in no outlay of funds for weeding labour and a cleaner plot in 1997 than we had in 1996 with hand-weeding. To our knowledge no hoes ever entered the plot last summer and we plan to keep them out in 1998.

The flower buds, prior to opening, are covered with many white hairs and after opening the flowers which may be from 3 to 5 cm across, develop highly recurved tepals (petals and sepals) forming a "turk's cap". Species or cultivars with deep red or white coloured tepals are common, but there are also brown, pink, light lavender, orange, tan, cream and yellow colours now available in the trade. Under normal growing conditions flowering occurs in mid June to early July.

Martagons in the garden; Black Prince and a "White Seedling" by Fred Tarlton

When viewing the types of the leaves on the various lilies grown in Prairie Canada, those of Martagon lilies can be considered as fairly unique. Leaves at the top of the stem tend to be randomly arranged, whereas there may be one or more whorls of leaves (three or more leaves attached in a circle around the stem) spaced along the stem.

With the exception of L. hansonii, martagon species and hybrids have an erect concentric bulb with jointed bulb scales.

The seed of the martagon is heavy and germination is hypogeal delayed (that is, a very small bulb forms first then a leaf appears). The seed is sown and held at 20 C, after 12-14 weeks a tiny bulb forms underground; the seed tray is then chilled at 4- 6 C, at about 6 weeks a small leaf should appear.

There are five species in the Martagon group: L.martagon, L. hansonii, L. medeoloides, L. distichum, and L. tsingtauense. They are native to certain areas in Europe and Asia. L. martagon has been grown in European gardens since the late sixteenth century. The modern day martagon hybrids are bred primarily from L. martagon and L. hansonii

The maratagon is often described as a "permanent" lily in the garden, that is, it prefers to remain where it is planted and does not take kindly to frequent transplanting. If moved, the martagon may "sulk", that is, it may fail to make an appearance the following spring. However do not despair there is activity going on underground. The martagon after transplanting often expends its energy in the formation of new roots rather than above ground growth. Once established the martagon flourishes and becomes an "automatic" in your garden. The planting site: a.) should be dug thoroughly to a depth of 10 inches incorporating some fertilizer and humus; b.) good drainage is essential, the martagon is tolerant but resent "wet" feet; c.) martagons can be located in light shade, woodland sites, in open sunny areas, or between shrubs; and .d) martagons should have some shelter from prevailing winds to prevent the stem from being battered. If planted along with shrubs the shrubs will require some pruning to prevent them from smothering the lilies. Martagons will tolerate heavy clay soils especially if the watering is reduced after the rapid growing phase.

Martagons seem to be very resistant to disease, Michael Jefferson-Brown states that martagons are virtually imprevious to virus attack. He also describes martagons as lilies for the beginner, faint-hearted and desperately busy!

Martagons do have a few drawbacks - some need a "settling in period" and they do have a slower rate of reproducing bulbs. The slow reproduction is the reason for the scarcity and higher cost of the bulbs. However the drawbacks are not great enough to prevent anyone from growing this some interesting lily!

References

Jefferson-Brown, Michael 1988. The lily for garden, patio and display. David and Charles, Inc., Vermont, USA ISBN 0-7153-9023-6.

Scott-James, Anne. 1988. Perfect plant, perfect garden. Summit Books. New York, USA. ISBN 0-671-64531-5

Thorpe, Patricia. 1988. The American weekend gardener. Randon House. Canada. ISBN 0-394-56125-6.

Martagon Bulb Sources

Fox Lily Ranch, R.R.#2, Millet, Alberta, T0C 1Z0

Gardenimport, P.O. Box 760, Thornhill, Ontario, L3T 4A5, 1-800-339-8314; e-mail flower@gardenimport.com or www.gardenimport.com

Parkland Perennials. P.O. Box 3683, Spruce Grove, Alberta T7X 3A9, 403-963-7307

The Lily Nook, P.O. Box 846, Neepawa, Manitoba R0J 1H0, www.lilynook.mb.ca .

The materials for this method are simple - a large Rubbermaid garbage container, 17 gal or 77.3 liter size or a similar sized galvanized one either serve as the storage container; newspaper, this is optional, to line the container; and a large bale of peat moss - these are the insulators. You'll need a large scrub pail about 10 inches in diameter (about 25 cm) to form the storage space; "baggies" (sandwich bags - 16 by 14 cm) to hold the bulbs; garden sulphur as an optional fungicide; plastic labels; and a marking pen.

If you are digging bulbs and plan to store them, it is best to remove the wet soil from the bulbs and sun dry the bulbs for an hour or more. This will prevent the bulbs from rotting during storage. The bulbs should be dusted with garden sulphur. Put a handful of dry peat moss in the sandwich bag, add the label, the bulb, and close the bag - it's ready to store.

Prepare the storage container by lining the bottom and sides with several sheets of newspaper, then place at least 4-6 inches (10-15 cm) of peat moss in the bottom of the container. Next place the scrub pail in the middle of the Rubbermail container on the peat moss layer and fill peat moss around the pail, thus form an "insulated storage core". Add the packaged bulbs and continue building the insulated storage core as needed. Leave at least 4 inches between the last layer of bulbs and the cover, to this space add a layer of insulating peat and newspaper. This method will surround the bulbs with a minium of 4 inches of insulation for overwintering. I was able to store about 150-200 bulbs in this type of storage container. In the past I have placed the insulated container in an unheated tool shed, and more recently in an unheated garage. In either type of building the results were more than satisfactory. Storing directly out of doors in a sheltered spot with some snow cover would probably work - although I have not tried this.

In Fall 1999 I stored 51 lily cultivars - Asiatic hybrids (Div I), Longiflorum-Asiatic hybrids (LAs), Trumpet hybrids (Div VI), Orientpet hybrids (Div VIII) and Aurelian-Asiatic hybrids (Div VIII). In past years I have stored some martagon hybrids.

Generally the asiatic hybrids, martagons hybrids, Longiflorum-asiatic hybrids, and Aurelian-asiatic hybrids have survive storage the best; orientpet hybrids were marginal (here bulb condition is important even bulbs in good condition had problems). The longiflorum and trumpet bulbs stored very poorly even when the condition of these bulbs at storage was considered as in excellent condition.

Lilies Stored

Rating of condition of the bulbs after winter storage: r = rotted; s=sprouts present < 0.5in; m = mould; 0 = poor; + = good; ++ excellent; p = potted in April 2000; g = growth in summer 2000 -= poor; +=good; ++=excellent.

ORIENTPETS: Starburst Sensation (r); Northern Sensation (m;0;p;g0); Northern Carillon (m;0;p;g+); Northern Beauty ( ++;p;g++)

TRUMPETS: Tetra Trumpet (Cebeco) (r); Jendruck Seedling (r)

AURELIAN-ASIATIC Hybrids: Creamy Belles (+;p;g+); Firey Belles (++;p;g+); Silky Belles (++;p;g++); Purple Belles (0;p;g0)

LONGIFLORUM-ASIATIC Hybrids: Casa Rosa (m;0;p;g-none); La Paz (++;p;g++); My Fair Lady (++;p:g++); Royal Love (m;0;p;g+); Royal Victory (s;++;p:g+).

ASIATIC Hybrids: 10 Alex Burnett Seedling (++;p;g++); Ariadne (s;++;p;g+); Bel Ami (s;++;p;g+); Bicolor Ballerina (s;++;p;g++); Butter Pixie (++;p;g++); Dawn Delight (++;p;g++); Denia (m;s+;p;g+); Ed Brooman (s;++;p;g0); Embarrassment (s;++;p;g++); Fleur de Lis (s;++;p;g++); George Slate (++;p;g++); Helios (++;p;g++); Jewel Pixie (s;++;p;g++); Katinka (++;p;g++); Lavender Splash (s;++;p;g++); Misty (s;++;p;g++); Modern Butterfly (s;++;p;g++); New Dawn (s;++p;g++); Northern Princess (s;++;p;g++); Pan (++;p;g++); Paulus Potter (++;p;g++); Pink Pixie (++;p;g++); (s;+;p;g+); Reta's Comet (s;++;p;g++); Robinson's Comet (s;++;p;g++); Rosepoint Lace (s;+;p;g+); Shiraz (s;+;p;g+); Sphinx (s;++;p;g++); Startling (-m;p;g none); Sungod (s;++;p;g++); Suntan (s;++p;g++); Super Nova (s;++;p;g++); Tropicana (++;p;g++); White Babies (s;++;p;g++); and Yum Yum (s;++;p;g++).

CASORON is a granular pre-emergent chemical, developed for shelterbelt weed control, which attaches to the soil particles and kills weeds as they germinate. It is effective against such weeds as chickweed, purslane, groundsel, knotweed, lamb's quarters, mustrad, pigweed,, shepherd's purse, dandelion and sow thistle. It offers partial control on other weeds including Canada thistle. The granular chemical must be applied as late as possible in the fall - about mid-October. While its action and results are very similar to Treflan, Casoron has the advantage of being less concentrated so application is somewhat simpler. It should not be used in proximity to any shallow-rooted plants as it may leach down and enter the root zone. Casoron is simply applied to the soil surface - no incorporation is required.

Stands of Bold Knight, Matchless and Coppertone were treated with Caroson in October 1999. A portion of each row was treated at the recommended rate of 11 grams of Caroson to 1 square meter (a row 12 inches wide and 11 feet long equals 1 square meter). An equal amount in each row was left untreated. In spring 200 the lilies emerged with no noticable difference between the treated and untreated sections. While weed growth was initially slow due to cool dry spring it later became evident that there were no weeds emerging in the treated areas. Control was complete and no weed growth developed up to publication date (September 2000). Untreated areas needed the usual chemical spraying to control heavy weed growth. It would appear that Caroson offers considerable potential for weed control in lilies.

Caution must be expressed however on two matters. First, it is imperative that steps be taken to accurately apply the recommended rate. We measured weighed amounts into a glass jar with a finely punched metal lid, and marked various amount levels on the side of the jar. This allowed for refilling without subsequent weighing of the Caroson. Second, we have not been able thus far to determine whether Caroson builds up in the soil. We know that it can be leached down so deeper roots in sandy soils could be put at jeopardy.

Caroson is available in the fall only at garden centers in 2 kg and 15 kg bages at a cost of approximately $8.00 per kilogram. CPLS will be making a purchase and considerable applications in the coming fall!

My garden is 50 kilometers north of Saskatoon in the village of Hepburn. I've been growing lilies for about fifteen years. Over the years I've observed that there is a noticeable difference in the length of my growing season compared to that of Saskatoon. Hepburn often has its first snowfall of the winter a week or more before Saskatoon experiences snow. In spring my yard is about a week to ten days slower to awaken than yards in Saskatoon. I'm sure that part of this difference is due to the heat island created by the city. My soil conditions are also not ideal for lilies. My garden soil is fairly heavy silty clay loam, which doesn't provide the good drainage which almost all lilies require. I've grown several hundred different lily cultivars over the years and have food that there are some cultivars which are much more tolerant of heavier soils and drainage which is less than perfect.

The following are a few cultivars which have flourished in the less than ideal cultural conditions which my yard offers.

One of the earlist cultivars to bloom in my yard is Jolly Miller. This is an upfacing apricot coloured lily with large flowers, showing a sprinkling of black spots towards the center of the petals. This lily grows to about 18 inches tall, I've observed that on the heavier soils, lilies (and other crops such as carrots) generally grow shorter or smaller than in light, sandy soils. The petals of Jolly Miller have a very good substance and when this lily is in bloom it is lovely. Shades of orange are not my favourite colours, but I can forgive this lily it's orangeness because it blooms early and after a long winter I'm starved for the sight of a lily blossom.

Marlene is a more recent introduction which has been a pleasant surprise for me. This is an upfacing cultivar which grows to about 36 inches in my yard. The large flat flowers are white with pink tips, and appear in mid season. I planted this lily in a bed which had clay subsoil mixed into it when trenching was done for a waterline. In the space of about five years Marlene has formed a large healthy clump in much less than ideal conditions. When I planted this bed I added a lot of peat moss to improve the tilth of the soil, but there is such a high clay content that organic matter should be added yearly. Marlene hasn't noticed yet that I've been negligent in my gardening duties.

Marlene

An old favourite, and late season blomer which is outstanding in my yard is Joanna. This is a tall lily with a nicely shaped inflorescence, held upright on sturdy stems. Flower colour is rich yellow with an orangish flame in each petal. I planted this lily in the same bed as Marlene and both have performed very well in this location.

Tiger Babies

When the cultivar Tiger Babies became available I bought the bulb because I found the flowers very attractive. In my soil and climatic conditions this lily has not performed very well. It has not been as vigorous as I had hoped. I planted a bulb of Katinka a couple of years after planting Tiger Babies and have found Katinka. to be far superior in my garden. These lilies are quite similar to each other in colour and in both the flowers are downfacing. Flower colour is a pale peachy-buff with a generous sprinkling of chocolate spots. In my garden Katinka grew abot 40 inches and blooms mid season.

I am partial to bi-colour and brushmark lilies, and to lilies which are unusual. Lativa Promise fits the description for unusual. The flowers are pale yellow with the inner third to half of the petals heavily and densely marked with speckles pattern in dark reddish brown. This is a strong, healthy lily which I've had in my garden for about four years. It bloom in mid season with upfacing flower and reaches a height of about 30 inches.

I have grown all of these lily cultivars for at least four years and have found all of them to be outstanding performers. I would recommend them to gardeners who enjoy growing lilies and especially for gardeners who like me face the challenge of providing draingae in heavy soils.

[ Editor's Note: Joanna is one of a number of seedlings resulting from cross L. wilsonii var. flavum with Connecticut King. The seedlings from this cross were extremely uniform in appearance - all were rich yellow with gold blotches and a few stops at the base of petals, the difference being the intensity of colour. Thus it is sometimes difficult to tell them apart. This group gave rise to a series of lilies named and registered as Adelina, Cordelia, Joanna (aka Yellow Giant), Pollyana and Vanessa .].

The Weed Wars

by Art Delahey , CPLS Newsletter #93: 2-4

Weeds are segregated into various categories depending upon their growth habits. Annual weeds such as redroot pigweed begin their growth in the spring and mature later in the season after setting seed for next year's crop. Winter annuals germinate in the fall, establish growth which then becomes dormant and survives over winter, then begins growth in early spring, maturing in early summer. Biennials germinate from seed in the first year, produce top-growth but no seed, establish a root system which overwinters to produce new growth and seed the following year. Perennials have root system which survive over winter and establish new top-growth each season to produce seeds before being frozen into dormancy for the winter. As a gardener one must identify and categorize any weed problem in order to be able to establish a sound control program. Manual control (hoeing) will certainly work on annuals but leads to much difficult work and frustration with perennials. Their root systems interwine with those of garden plants which are disrupted through physical removal of the weed.

THE ENEMY - Classes of weeds and examples

Annuals - red-root pigweed, lamb's quater, common groudsel, purslane, chickweed, wild mustard, common peppergrass, round leaved mallow, spear-leaved goosefoot, kochia

Winter Annuals -stinkweed, shepherd's purse, flixweed

Biennials - goat's beard, sweet clover

Perennials - dandelions, Canada thistle, quack grass, brome grass.

Obviously the gardener's approach to weed control depends upon the type and quanity of weeds, the amount of labour, and time to be dedicated, and the objective - eradication or satisfactory control. Depending to these factors the gardener may choose to follow a manual program, a chemical program, or a combination of the two methods. In most lily gardens we opt for the latter.

What are the pros and cons of a chemical control program?

CONS - many herbicides are non-selective (i.e., they kill all vegetation).

• spray drift can seriously damage or kill sensitive plants (tomatoes are a great indicator of the presence of herbicides),
• the gardener's sensitivity or allergy to chemicals,
• soil residue may prevent the planting of subsequent crops or the build-up may damage growth in following years, and,
• in many cases timing of application is critical.

PROS - used correctly chemicals can eradicate problem weeds.

• labour input is reduced considerably,
• fewer weeds escape to set seed, thereby gradually cleaning up the garden, and,
• elimination of perennial problem can make manual control of annuals much less laborius.

The ALLIES - classes of chemicals

Chemicals can be divided into two main classes - pre-emergent and post-emergent herbicides. As the name suggests pre-emergent chemicals are put on or into the soil prior to growth beginning in the spring. Fall is the usual time of application. They have the advantage of being able to be placed when time allows as the garden is cleaned up. Post-emergent herbicides can be used at various stages of growth depending upon the weeds' most susceptible period of growth, and the climatic conditions. Timing can be critical with some of the post-emergents so a spell of bad weather will often rule out their use and efficacy. In either case manufacturers' directions should be followed to the letter - more is not better where chemicals are concerned!

PRE-EMERGENT

Triflouralin- tradename Trelfan. Inhibits growth of the roots and shoot tips as weeds germinate and begin to emerge. It must be incorporated into the top 1 to 1.5 inches of soil. Effective on chickweed, purslane, lamb's quarters and red-root pigweed but misses wild mustard and stinkweed. Subsequent use can result in soil build-up and damage to later plantings. It can only be purchased in agricultural quantities - 22.7kg bags - and is applied at 2.25 kg per acre. It has been used successfully on lilies over the years but caution is advised.

Treflan treated lily plot

Dichlobenil - tradename Carsoron. Available as a granular formation which can be applied either in the fall (preferable) or very early spring. It is simply sprinkled on the soil surface. It is available at garden centers in 2 and 15 kg bags. It is a systemic herbicide absorbed by the emerging weed roots and weeds are controlled before they emerge. Effective against chickweed, purslane, groundsel, knotweed, lamb's quarters, mustard, pigweed, shepherd's purse, dandelion and sow thistle among others - a broader range than Treflan. It is applied at 1 kg per 600 sq ft so there is a greater safety factor than in applying Trelfan.

POST EMERGENT

2,4-D Amine - a systemic herbicide which is absorbed through the foliage and translocated to actively growing areas resulting in twisted growth and subsequent browning. It is sold in various sizes under many tradenames. Vapour drift risk is low, action time takes 7 to 10 days, and risk of tolerant plant injury is low. The writer has used it effectively in removing heavy weed infestations in lilies by directing the spray at the base of the stems. Caution must be used on seedlings. It controls the common annuals excepting chickweed and purslane. Mix at 1.5 ounce per gallon of water.

2,4-D, Mecoprop Dicamba - Trademake Killex, Lawn Weed Doctor. Another systemic herbicide sprayed on actively growing young weeds. If does not vaporize and breaks down in the soil on average in 30 days. This product is effective against chickweed, purslane, dandelions, lamb's quarters, mustrad, knotweed, and the top-growth of Canada thistle, and is best used as a lawn and pathway spray rather than directly on lilies.

Bromoxynil + MCPA ester - tradename Buctril M. It is available only in agricultural quantities and formulations. It is the herbicide of choice for common groundsel, and handles most annual and winter annuals. It is not very effective on perennials - kills top growth only. Used at 1 ounce per gallon up to the 8 leaf stage it is effective on groundsel, killing the plant in 3 to 5 days. Caution has to be used to not direct it on lilystems or seedlings as they are susceptible.

Glyphosphate - tradename Roundup, Clear-it, Sidekick. A non-selective herbicide which kills any green plant it touches. It is one of the most effective and safest herbicides on the market. It is odourless, does not vaporize, and dissolves easily in water. Because it is innocuous to living tissue it circulates freely through the plant, reaching all areas before damage is done. It acts by blocking protein manufacture thereby shutting down the plant's normal metabolic processes. Any glyphosphate which lands on soil is tightly bound to the soil particles, so tightly that plant roots cannot detach it, so there is no residue build-up. Soil bacteria attack and naturally destroy it. Since it is highly soluble in water and poolyr absorbed in the digestive tract glyphosphate is rapidly excreted from the body, unchanged. Glyphosphate is most effective in early spring on new growth or in the fall when the plant is rapidly building root reserves for the following year. Extreme care should be used in applying it

STRATEGIES AGAINST WEEDS

Manual control - hoe, hoe, hoe! If time and effort are not a concern hoeing and picking weeds will keep them under control. A sharp hoe can do serious damage in a lily bed if one is careless, so the tendency is to hoe after the lilies are up and the weeds are bigger. Perennials are a problem even to the strongest hoe and gardener - top growth control is as good as you can expect.

Chemical controls

• 1.) pre-emergent - excellent control of winter annuals and some perennials can be accomplished by applying Treflan or Caroson in the fall after the lily bed is cleaned up. Great care must be taken to ensure that the correct rate is applied and that incorporation is properly done in the case of Treflan.
• 2.) post-emergent -
  • (a.) winter annuals - spray with 2,4D amine either in the fall when growth is evident, or in the spring prior to the emergence of the lilies. Spraying should be done after lily emergence BUT care has to be taken to keep the spray off the lilies and weeds can be missed.
  • (b.) summer annuals - spraying summer annuals is not recommended unless you have to, and then only if you have a steady hand and nerves of steel. Chemical spray can hit the young seedlings and wipe them out. If the problem is common groudsel you have no alternative other than a great deal of hoeing. Buctril M to the rescue, spray on a calm day and keep the losses to a minium - again exercise extreme care!
  • (c.) perennials - there is no better time and treatment than Roundup in the fall after the lilies have matured (i.e., stems have turned brown) or have been frozen down. Use the correct rate and spray everything - you will not harm the lilies. If necessary Roundup can be used in the spring but control can be limited if lilies emerge early or if it is a dry, hot spring.

SECRETS TO SPRAYING LILIES

Know the area to be covered.

Mix the correct amount of chemical for that area with the correct amount of water.

Use a good quality sprayer in good operating condition. A i to 2 gallon hand sprayer is easily carried and contains enough mixture to cover a sizeable area. It must have an adjustable nozzle, filters and a wand long enough to get close to the soil surface without permanently disabling your back. Clean the filters and oil the pressure pump before starting

Spray evenly - walk at a constant rate and move the wand back and forth in a steady rhythm if you are doing a wide area. Keep the wand low and directed at the base of the lilies (stems can ignore most chemicals) and watch for the little seedlings.

PRACTICAL EXPERIENCES

Treflan was used at Riverside Gardens for several years until there was a noticeable residue build-up. This residue coincided with some dry summers and frost to possibly cause a population decline in our plots. Insufficient fertilization could have also contributed. The late Dr. J.M. Bell used Treflan with considerable confidence and satisfaction to control purslane and chickweed.

CPLS McKercher Plot - Common grounsel was introduced into the garden when Andy Dingwall established his original plantings there. It became a very serious problem which had to be kept under control annually, thereby causing a sizeable expense for labour for CPLS. The writer undertook to see if a Buctril M spray program would offset the labour. Two sprayings were done during the summer catching the groundsel prior to the 8 leaf stage. Gramoxone was used on ocassion to burn out any volunteer grains and grasses from the straw placed between the rows. In the fall the entire plot was sprayed with Roundup to remove the Canada thistle, quack grass and brome grass which had come in with the straw. It also cleaned off the winter annuals although these were not a big problem. In the spring 1999 there were scarcely any growth prior to lily emergence but groundsel was expected as the spring progressed. Future control will involve Buctril M sprayed cautiously during the summer and fall applications of Roundup as warranted.

Planting and Care For Lilies - by Barbara Adams-Eichendorf , CPLS Newsletter #95:1-2

Physical characteristics of lily bulbs

Lily bulbs occur as five five different types: concentric, rhizomatous, sub-rhizomatous, stoloniferous and stolinform. Most of the commerically available bulbs are concentric, meaning they are roughly circular with the growing point near the center.

The bulb consists of a solid basal plate which is actually a modified stem, and bulb scales which grow upward from the basal plate. Bulb scales are modified leave which are sites of nutrient storage. The bulb scales are loosely arranged in an overlapping pattern and do not have a papery covering like an onion or tulip bulb.

The basal plate produces roots and buds for new growth. Lilies produce two types of roots: basal and feeder or stem roots. The basal roots grow downward as the plant grows. Feeder roots grow both from the basal plate and the underground portion of the stem as the plant grows.

The feeder roots which grow out from the underground portion of the main stem are an annual - they die when the foliage dies back. The basal roots are long-lived, thicker or wrinkly-looking.

Cultural requirements

The physical characteristics of the lily bulb give use indicators of how to treat it in storage and in planting. These bulbs do not have a period of complete dormancy like tulips, does not have a protective outer covering, and long-lived basal roots, one should not let the bulbs dry out during storage.

It is also important not to store bulbs in conditions which are too damp as this may lead to problems with disease. This is why you will often see bulbs packed in peat moss and placed in plastic bags. For long term storage cool temperatures are necessary.

Because the bulbs will probably remain in the same place in the garden for several years, proper soil preparation is essential: perennial weeds should be eradicated, and soil should be worked to a depth about 12 inches or to 20 inches if practical.

Good drainge is absolutely essential for the health of lily bulbs.

The addition of organic matter to the soil is a good way to improve the tilth of the soil, to improve drainage and to improve soil fertility. Peat moss and compost are good organic additives, however, well rotted manure must be used with caution as there is some evidence that it can promote disease if it comes in contact with lily bulbs. Well rotted manure workd well as a top dressing for the soil around lilies.

Lilies prefer cool roots; mulch or shallow ground cover is benficial in moderating soil temperature.

Fertilzer

Consider the fertility of your soil; light sandy soil is often highly leached and will have low fertility. Heavier soils may be more fertile but those with a high clay content often suffer from nutrient unavailability caused (by several factors, one of which is) anaerobic conditions. The addition of organic matter to the soil will improve the structure of all soils. When organic matter which is not completely composted is added to the soil, the soil micro-organisms use nitrogen in the process of breaking down this material; nitrogen deficiency may occur.

Soil acidity, alkalinity and salinity all may influence the availability of nutrients for plant use, if you are unsure of the soil fertility, have a soil test done.

When choosing a fertilizer to use for lilies, consider that if you are planting in the fall there will be no green growth until spring, so nitrogen added at fall planting time will not be usable to the plant until spring by which time it may be lost in gaseous form or by leaching.

Bone meal or bone meal plus fertilzer such as 2-14-0 with a high second number (phosphorous) will encourage root growth.

High nitrogen fertilizer is not recommended for lilies as this promotes fast, weak growth of foliage and bulbs; weak growth makes the lily more susceptible to disease.

General Planting Guidelines

In general the size of the bulb determines the planting depth; plant so the top of the bulb is under the soil at a depth of two to two and one half time the height of the bulb. It's okay to plant a bit on the shallow side of these guidelines, as the contractile roots will pull the bulb down to its desired depth.

In light sandy soil plant deeper than in heavy soil; plant martagons deeper than Asiatics

Raised beds or planting on a slope will help to provide the necessary drainage in heavier soils.

A layer of mulch will help keep the soil from heaving in late fall and early winter, protect against those late frosts in the spring and keep the soil cool in the heat of summer. Basal rot is a serious fungal disease which affects lilies. It is caused by the fungus Fusarium oxysporum var. liii which thrives in warm, wet soil. Because this pathogen can remain alive in the soil for at least three years without a host, it is important not to plant lilies where lilies [with disease ] have previously been grown.

Most lilies require full sun for several hours each day, with the exception of martagons and some species lilies which will grow in light shade.

Choose an area which has good air circulation, this is important in reducing the impact of the fungal disease botrytis. Botrytis is particularly troublesome in wet weather, or when foliage remains wet for an extended time. Good air circulation allows foliage to dry faster, reducing conditions which favour the development of boyrytis. Avoid using overhead watering methods as this will wet the foliage and may lead to problems.

Lilies are quite drought-tolerant, but will benefit from irrigation during hot weather. Be sure to water newly planted bulbs thoroughly to ensure vigorous growth before the ground freezes.

Lilies are affected by several viral diseases: TBV or tulip breaking virus and CMV or cucumber mosiac virus show as streaking patterns or mottling of leaves and as streaking of colour on the petals. Control of aphids is crucial in preventing the spread of virus as aphids carry virus from plant to plant on their stylets.

My Favourite Perennial Companion Plants for Lilies - by Barbara Adams-Eichendorf , CPLS Newsletter #110:5-8

My yard is located 50 kilometers north of Saskatoon in the Village of Hepburn. I have been gardening here for more than 20 years, and have tried an assortment of lilies and perennials in various locations throughout the yard over this time. My soil tends to be a bit heavy; I would say it is a silty clay-loam. It holds a lot of water and doesn't drain as well as the lilies would like. As well, once it dries out, it takes a lot of water to wet it again. The topsoil varies in depth, usually around a foot deep, with a very heavy clay subsoil. Fortunately the yard is gently sloped in most areas, so excess water can drain away.

I grow mostly Asiatic lilies, some Martagons and a few species lilies. The species lilies that have grown well for me are L. dauricium, L. pumilum, and L. martagon. I have tried to grow oriental and trumpet lilies as well as OTs but have had limited success growing them in my garden. Wilbert Ronald's "Starburst Sensation" has been the best of the OTs in the garden. Orientals and OTs have done well grown in pots. I leave them in pots year round; I do not bury them in the ground but cover them with a 10 inch layer of mulch (post peelings).

I think that lilies look very attractive in mnixed borders with perennials and maybe a few annuals. By using a mix of early, mid and latre blooming perennials, along with annuals, you cam have continuous bloom through the growing season. Also, perennials add interest to the mixed border with different foliage textures and shapes.

To be worthy of inclusion on this list, the perennials had to have survived in my yard for 10 years or more, with minimal care and no special treatment for winter. And for every perennial that has thrived under my yard, I'm sure I've purchased ten that have languished and died. This has not always been the fault of the plant - I like to push the limits and often try Zone 4 and sometimes Zone 5 plant material. I have tried them all, from Alchemilla, Agastache and Oenothera to Pachysandra, Tricyrtis and Tiarella.

Also, badly behaved perennials were not allowed on the list. Included in this group were Geranium "Johnson's Blue", and Achillea millefolium, boyh of which are very invasive in my yard. Both these perennials get high marks for durability, but they seem to be very hard to get rid of once established. Also included are perennials that do not get along with lilies. Peonies are a special favourites of mine, but I have found that lilies planted too close to them seem to disappear, probably because they couldn't compete with the peony's huge root system. I would suspose that because both lilies and peonies share a susceptibility to the fungal disease, botrytis, that they should not be considered good companion plants for each other. I also have not included Nepeta (catmint) even though I quite like the plant. I have never had one grow more than 6 inches high before being grazed to the ground by thrillseeking felines in search of a high. I have also not included plants that are short lived. I really like penstemons, but I have found they only live three or four years in my garden. So, the perennials listed here are the toughest of the tough, survivcing the extremes of Zone 2 weather and lending their beauty to my perennial borders. This is not to imply that thry are prefect - only that their shortcomings are ones that I am prepared to live with!

And, as with most articles on gardening, there is a certain degree of subjectivity. Let's be honest it's totally subjective! Each of us gardeners has an opinion about what we like and what we truly despise and the quirky and sometimes illogical reasons for our choices which may have no bases in reality. We like what we like!

As I reviewed my list, I noticed that many of the perennials I like have blue flowers. Blue flowered perennials make a lovely complement to the red, yellow, pink and white lilies, and of course, are beautiful in combination with orange. The perennials that I will describe here are all grown in full sun. I grow a diffrent set of perennials in the shade with the Martagon lilies but that will have to be another article.

I would say that bellflowers, campanulas, are among my favourites as lily companions. The peach-leaved bellowflower, Campanula persicifolia is 2-3 feet tall with spikes of clear, medium blue, bell-shaped flowers, about 2" long and an inch wide, which face outwards. It is also available in white, and both grow well in full sun or partial shade. It blooms over a fairly long period, usually all of July when most of the lilies are in bloom. In my yard, it often continues to give blossoms well into September.

There are many different bellflowers available for the garden ranging the height from 6" ground cover to 24-36" mid to back border size. My other top pick from this genus is the clustered bellflower, Campanula glomerata. It blooms in early and mid summer, and in my yard it grows between 18 to 24" in height. The blooms are medium to dark blue and are, as the name suggests, clustered along the bloom spike. The plant forms a low, spreading mat of leaves from which the bloom spikes arise. My all-yime favourite bellflower is C. glomerata "Caroline" which is a lovely lilac colour with pinkish throat. I am also impressed with the white form of the clustered bellflower. The blossoms are very clean white and look good with any lily colour.

The clustered bellflower does spread by underground roots and will form a large mat over time. This may be considered a shortcoming by some, but it does give plant material to move to other places in the yard and when you have a large yard this habit is seen as a positive rather than a negative attribute.

For all around toughness, hardiness, and bug and disease resistance, I give high praise to the gas plant Dictamnus albus. In my yard it grows about 2-3 feet in height and produces racemes of pale pink flowers with darker veining for a few weeks starting in June. The plant gives off a lemony fragrance, from leaves as well as flowers and can cause skin irritation in some people. I am sure that the oils in the plant that give it the pleasant smell, act as a bug deterrent, as I have never seen any sign of insect damage on it. The compound leaves are dark, glossy green and very attractive. I also have the white flowered form but I do not like it as well as I like the pink. Gas plant blooms at the same time as Bert Porter's "Jolly Miller" which is a peach-orange colour and one of the earliest blooming Asiatic lilies in my garden. Gas plant is a bit slow to establish and hates to be moved, but once settled in it is a very durable and long-lived plant.

Salvia is another of my favourite perennials, and one of the things I like most about the plant has nothing to do with appearance. It is a member of the mint family and has a most attractive fragrance when you crush a leaf with your fingers. There are a few different cultivars of Salvia including "Rose Queen" - rose-pink, "Blue Queen" -medium blue, and "May Night" - dark purplish-blue. The plant grows about 18" tall and has dense spikes of small flowers. I particularly like the combinationn of "May Night" with orange or yellow lilies. Saliva are a good cut-flower and bloom through July and August for me.

Similar to Salvia in appearance and colours available is Speedwell or Veronica. I have several different speedwells in my garden. The earliest blooming is Veronica gentianoides, the Gentian speedwell, notable for its basal leaves, and 12 " spikes of pale, blue, half-inch wide flowers in mid-spring. Hungarian Speedwell, Veronica austriaca or V. teucrim has been reliable for an early-summer splash of blue at the front of the border for many years. It does not self seed or travel by underground roots, but does tend to be a bit floppy after blooming, a habit which is easily remedied by a light trim with the shears. The durable Veronica spicata or Spiked Speedwell, blooms in July and August, at the same time as most Asiatic lilies. In my garden, it is about 2 feet tall with spikes of small flowers of medium blue colour, which makes a nice contrast with almost any lily colour. Veronica spicata incana forms a mat of silvery, felty foliage and has 12" spikes of small, dark blue flowers. The latest blooming Speedwell in my yard is a deep rose-coloured cultivar called "Red Fox" which blooms in August. Spike Speedwell makes a nice cut-flower filler with lilies in floral arrangements. My only compliant about it is that it self seeds a little too freely if deadheading is not done on time.

Another blue-flowered perennial that I look forward to seeing at lily time is Scabiosa caucascia, the pincushion flower. It has fairly large flat flowers, 3 inches across, with a pincushion-like center. The flowers are lilac-blue. The plant itself is bushy, about 12" tall and 18" wide, with a single flower at the end of a wiry stem which may reach 3 feet. I have geown two other members of this genus and I was not impressed with either plant. The first was Scabiosa columbaria "Butterfly Blue" which is a lovely plant when seen at a garden centre but I could not get it to survive more than two years. The other is Scabiosa gigantean. It is hardy and pest-free, about 18" wide and five feet tall, but the flower colour, described as primose yellow, is not to my liking. It is a pale, greenish yellow and not terribly attractive, at least to me.

Daylilies are non blue-flowering perennials that have grown in prairie gardens for years. They are members of Liliaceae family, a genus of fibrous rooted plants. Two of my favourites are the yellow-flowered "Stella d' Or" and the burgundy red-flowered "Pardon Me".

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