CPLS





Lilies in the garden

Canadian Prairie Lily Society


Annual Show - Tips for Exhibitors

Click on the title in blue if you wish to read
Showing to Win   Getting Started Arranging

Showing to Win by Margaret Driver from the CPLS Newsletter

Culture: Fertilize as lilies are heavy feeders; Treat for botrytis before it gets going and Stake promising lilies so the stems are straight!

Read the show schedule carefully and enter as many classes as possible.

Check stems in the garden before cutting; use the criteria in the prize list the judges do!

Cut stems in bud (buds just showing some colour) 3 to 4 days in advance of the show; and store in a cool basement or moist cooler. Add floral preservative to the water. Remove 12 hours before leaving for the show to encourage more bloom. The pre-cutting and storing allows one to exhibit stems that may otherwise be past their prime the day of the show.

Transporting stems with flowers open is difficult but it can be done for our local show: (1) at one time Bert Porter suggested laying cut stems across the car seat on a foam pad, and once at the show cut a fresh portion of the stem and place the stem in water to revive; (2) another way is to place each stem in a bottle of water then place the bottles in a box; or (3) place stems in a bucket of damp sand or perlite.

If transporting stems to a distant show wilt them first, then pack the stems in a modestly flat cardboard box. Cut the stems when in bud (bud just showing some colour), lay the stem on a smooth surface and let it wilt (this may take from 4 to 24 hours). They may look terrible but they are ready for packing into cartons. Insulate the carton, foam peanuts work very well, carefully lay in stems intertwining two side by side, wrap any vulnerable parts and create layers. Do not wrap the stems in polythene or waxed paper.

When removing stems on arrival take care - pedicels are weak, buds are heavy and pedicels can easily break! Cut an inch off the bottom of the stem and stand the stems in containers of luke warm water. Be sure that stems of downfacing lilies stand straight up during the recovery time or the flowers will become lopsided as the stem lean on an angle.

Grooming is important - cut off, remove, clean, anything that detracts from the stem. Wipe each leaf clean to remove dust and spray residue, remove spilled pollen with a dry Q-tip or camel's hair brush, trim any brown leaf edges retaining the natural shape of the leaf and remove any misplaced secondary buds.

Staging properly will enhance the appearance of the stem. Trim a tall, ungainly stem; raise a short stem; and anchor stem(s) at the top of the "vase" with a piece of rhubarb; and remove leaves below the waterline in the "vase". Fill out the entry tag correctly and completely.

Tools are essential for grooming! So what is in the "tool kit or bag"? Cuticle cutter for trimming leaf edges; scissors for larger reshaping jobs; camel's hair brush (equivalent) to remove pollen; knife to trim stems; Q tips; white cotton handkerchief; tweezers these are all for hard to reach places; green florists' tape, super glue, straight pins all for repairing broken parts; rubber name stamp or pre-printed name labels to save time filling out entry cards; elastic bands for tight entry cards; and a green ink marking pen. The super glue can be used to repair a broken part, the straightpins to splice a broken pedicle and green ink can in a pinch blot a small botrytis spot.



Getting Started Arranging Lilies by Elizabeth Delahey from the CPLS Newsletter #7 1975

Arranging lilies can be a rewarding and creative experience. To help others avoid some of my initial mistakes, I will share some of the techniques I have learned to date. I say to date because I realize I have "just begun" in the art of lily arranging. Still ahead is the fascinating field of Japanese flower arranging and experimentation with new designs and forms.

The best advice for any "would-be" flower arranger is to buy or to borrow from the local library a good reference book. One I have consulted recently is "How to Arrange Flowers for all Occasions" by Katherine Culter. A couple of such volumes on your library shelf acts as a source of inspiration in creating new designs, as well as offering suggestions for combinations of flowers and foliage.

CUTTING: I have found the best procedure is to cut in the early morning or the evening prior to the show, plunging the stems into deep water. A diagonal cut with sharp shears exposes more stem to the water for the hardening purposes. At this time, remove any excess leaves that will not add to the final arrangement. Gather a variety of foliage specimens also. Remember that woody stems should have their bases split up and inch or more to increase water absorption. Ivy leaves, begonia leaves, new growth on peonies and roses last longer if completely submerged overnight. The hardening or soaking in water of these materials dramatically increases the ease of handling for arranging.

SELECTING: Naturally, only the healthy vigorous specimens are cut, with the bottom circle of blooms fully open..but not faded. For basket arrangements, the more vibrantly coloured varieties such as Red Torch, Bold Knight, Golden Regal, and Apricot Glow, seem to have a natural affinity for the attractive wicker or Italian type baskets. I usually select a couple of fully blooming heads and fill in with upfacing varieties. Stems, with only one or two blooms are most useful for completing the basket. A generous supply of foliage is also necessary.

CONTAINERS: The harmony of the container with the flowers is an intergral part of any design. Jast as baskets seem to suggest the use of bright and earthy colours, the more delicate, orchid-like varieties call for cut glass or elegant china containers. A single stem of Rosalind in a crystal vase can be sufficient in itself. Experiment and improvise with containers. Bun baskets, wicker waste paper baskets, antique jugs, pewter mugs or copper serving bowls are just a few of the possibilities.

AIDS: Acquiring the correct mechanical aids can transform a floral arrangement from a frustrating to a creative experience. The basic equipment which I have found available includes: sharp shears; a pinholder (frog) which consists of a heavy metal base with sharp pins placed close together sticking up from it, allowing you to stick a flower stem firmly on the pins and then bend it to any desired angle; oasis, which is a block of featherlike material which should be soaked before use and is particularly handy for securing flowers in bakets or other wide mouth containers; florists' clay, which is used to secure the pinholder to the container; and stickum, a completely adhesive tape which can be used as a substitute for the clay. To this basic list you could add pill bottles, florist tape, wire and other items you deem useful.

DESIGN: There are several design principles which should be considered when constructing an arrangement. A pattern or design should be evident. It may be triangular, oval, crescent, fan or a reverse curve. I tend to use the triangular shape, as it is the easiest to master, and lends itself best to my favourite container. For this design, first put in the line for height and then the two side pieces (for width). Then add the focal point, the large flower forms and those of the deepest colour towards the center. Gradually fill in with flowers and foliage. All mechanical. aids should be concealed by plant matterial. A simple guide to good proportion is that the plant material should be sufficiently taller than a tall vase, and wider than a low one so there is no doubt that the flowers are more important than the vase. The scale or size of the container should be in relation to the size of the blossoms, and suitable to the variety chosen. For example, the elegant William White, would look ridiculous in a rustic pottery bowl, there must be a relationship between the flowers and the container in quality and texture. Colour contributes to the design in the way it balances dark and light shades and as well as the way it communicates feelings. A brilliant arrangement of Red Torch lilies is dramatic and exciting, while the blending of soft colours can communicate feelings of peacefulness. To create balance in the finished product place the large dark flowers near the center. With a little practice, most of these principles will become inituitive and you will be able to judge whether the finished display is "right". Impressive size, a wide array of colours, and the almost exotic air of some varieties, ideally suit lilies for indoor arrangements. Why not take full advantage of this lily season by enjoying them indoors as well as in the garden!

[Editors comment: Please read the show schedule carefully BEFORE creating your designs, it prevents unpleasant surprises for all at show time! Good luck with your designs.]